Lying In The Lair.

GIERLOZ (WOLF'S LAIR).

We're joined at breakfast by a couple of ringed plover flying close to the van. The water is not turned on but we are able to sneak in a wash.

Our first stop is at Sviety Lipka, holy lime tree. The story goes that a condemned man is visited by The Virgin Mary and is given a branch. He carved a statue and in the morning the judge sees it as a miracle and freed him. We saw no sign of the carving but there is a large sanctuary.

The car park is free because we are quite a walk from the church. It is also empty so we make use of the space to dry our washing.

Rosie goes souvenir hunting whilst I sit people watching. A coach arrived despatching a congregation. They headed for the church. The driver, guide and priest lit up and headed for the cafe. Priorities, eh?

Move on to Ketrzyn. Rosie wants a hairdresser but they are all booked up until May. This is the venue for Saturday's run so we're here early. A walk around the town capped off with an ice cream. Rosie is ecstatic, she's finally found a kettle. At our age even the smallest win has to be appreciated!

Our final stop is at the Wolf's Lair, Hitler lived here for several years'in the war. We can book in for two days and leave tomorrow for the local town and return for the night.

We call for a beer at the bar, the restaurant closed at 4pm. The couple that run it are from Lodz, although they pronounced it Woodge. Rosie complains that the locals assume that she is a German and speak to her accordingly. They can't believe it, we have such an elegant accent, they say. First time it has been called that. They work here for 6 months' then travel Asia for the other six. We guess that they are in their early 30's. They offer us a bowl of soup which has been cooked in a military chuck wagon. It is delicious. After a couple of chilled, local beers we go for a walk around the bunkers.